The true Islam...

I don't have alot of time to post but I wanted to relay the experience I had yesterday at the Muslim Festival for Maharram. Salma and Shayma took me to the burial place of prince Alil where the main ceremony was being held. We started to go inside they prevented Salma and Shayma from entering because they were female. That left me., so I decided to dive into it head first and all I have to say is WOW! 

As I entered the site I immediately caught EVERY ONES attention as I was the only white person/westerner for miles (at that time it felt like I was the only one in the world to be honest). Even though I was getting stared down by a bunch of Muslim men participating in a VERY passionate mourning ceremony I didnt feel the least worried or nervous. As I made my way to the place where the men were expressing their grief I had several of them come up to me and start asking me all kind of questions (Where are you from? Are you Muslim? Why are you here? etc.)

I have to be honest that for about a second I contemplated telling them I was Canadian but then I said $!&# it, just go with it. When I told them I was American they had this look of shock and curiosity on their face and they immediately accepted me being there. As I start to walk on holy ground (which I didnt know at the time) I had my shoes on. They immediately stopped me and told me to take my shoes off so I did and walked on over. I stood there for about 10 minutes listening to men wail in Arabic and beat their heads and chests not 5 feet from me. I was very aware that everyone was looking at me waiting to see my expressions which of course were very respectful. It was amazing to witness this in person and so closely. I'll never forget it.

Then came time for me to take some pics. As I was surrounded by a lot of men I couldn't see into the main circle so I looked for a better vantage point and saw this mound of dirt a few feet from and I stepped up onto it. It was the biggest mistake of my life as unknown to me it was a...grave! Yes that's right..in the middle of all this religious fervor going on I step up on an ancient Muslim grave! Now you're probably thinking, "Oh shit..he's dead!", but you would be amazed at how calmly they grabbed me by the arms pulled me down and explained to me very calmly what I had just did. i was of course apologetic to the ninth degree and they were completely accepting. They knew I didn't know any better and didnt do it on purpose. They then took me to a spot a few feet away to get a better view.

What I saw and videotaped was out of this world. A group of men had formed a circle and started self flagellating with metal spikes. Their backs were a bloody mess and their clothes were soaked blood red. People around them were wailing very loudly and beating their chests. It was a truly intense experience and surprisingly they were very into me taping it. I have the video so you will see.

After that I gathered my shoes and walked back to Salma and Shayma. The whole way back I was encircled by all these men just staring at me and smiling and shaking my hand. I couldnt believe it. When I got back to them we were mobbed by dozens of guys as they were wondering about why I was with these 2 Muslim women. They told them I was there friend and then we had a 10 minute conversation about the holiday. They answered every question we had very patiently and never showed any sign of annoyance at my ignorance. They walked us out the front gate and then we were mobbed again by more men asking more questions to us. We met this great guy named Ronald who was from Toronto but was born in Kolkata. He took pics of us and explained alot to us about the events happening. Never once did I feel threatened or uncomfortable and to the contrary I felt very welcomed and accepted.

We then followed the procession down the street. Around us young Muslim boys were banging drums, shaking swords and machetes in the air and dancing. Again, it sounds crazy but it was there way of expressing their religion and they accepted that I was there to observe and learn. It was beautiful. I saw for the first time the true spirit of Islam. What it is really like and I had this overwhelming sense of respect for them. I saw how they put Salma and Shayma on a pedestal and were watching over them and making sure they were safe. I saw young Muslim men smile at me and shake my hand while holding a sword in the other. It was so amazing, you just cant imagine.

Catherine Mackinnon in the morning and then that in the afternoon....WHAT A DAY!

We're getting ready to head back to Apne Aap and then I will go with some of the volunteers to Varanasi (12 hour train ride - YIKES!). Susan is staying behind with some others so this is our last day together until we leave to come home. A little sad, but it will be nice to have us experience 2 different things to convey.
Anyway, that's it for now....gotta go continue on this amazing journey.
Have a great one!
Namaste,
DADA